优衣库：为“无聊”而设计，却成就非凡
字幕摘录
| 时间 | 英文 | 中文 |
|---|---|---|
| 0:00 | Look at this t-shirt. | 看看这件T恤 |
| 0:01 | No logos, no graphics, no seasonal colorway. | 没有标志,没有图形,没有季节性的彩色通道. |
| 0:04 | Just a blank t-shirt. | 只是一个空白的T恤。 |
| 0:07 | Now look at this jacket. | 看看这件夹克 |
| 0:08 | This shelf. | 这个架子。 |
| 0:10 | This entire brand. | 这整个品牌。 |
| 0:17 | Nothing here is chasing a trend. | 这里没有什么在追求一个趋势。 |
| 0:19 | Nothing here is trying to be cool. | 没有什么是想冷静。 |
| 0:21 | Nothing here even has a visible logo. | 这里没有明显标志 |
| 0:24 | And yet, Uniqlo made over 22 billion dollars last year. | 然而,Uniqlo去年赚了超过220亿美元。 |
展开字幕全文（413 条）
| 序号 | 英文 | 中文 |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Look at this t-shirt. | 看看这件T恤 |
| 2 | No logos, no graphics, no seasonal colorway. | 没有标志,没有图形,没有季节性的彩色通道. |
| 3 | Just a blank t-shirt. | 只是一个空白的T恤。 |
| 4 | Now look at this jacket. | 看看这件夹克 |
| 5 | This shelf. | 这个架子。 |
| 6 | This entire brand. | 这整个品牌。 |
| 7 | Nothing here is chasing a trend. | 这里没有什么在追求一个趋势。 |
| 8 | Nothing here is trying to be cool. | 没有什么是想冷静。 |
| 9 | Nothing here even has a visible logo. | 这里没有明显标志 |
| 10 | And yet, Uniqlo made over 22 billion dollars last year. | 然而,Uniqlo去年赚了超过220亿美元。 |
| 11 | They have over 2500 stores across the world | 全世界有2500多家店铺 |
| 12 | and they have customers who don't just buy from them, they swear by them. | 他们有客户 他们不只是从他们购买, 他们发誓。 |
| 13 | They are people who own 15 versions of the same t-shirt. | 他们拥有15个版本的同一件T恤。 |
| 14 | Reddit社区讨论他们 | |
| 15 | fabric technologies and designers who left luxury houses just to work with Uniqlo. | 织物技术 和设计师谁离开豪华房子 只是与Uniqlo工作。 |
| 16 | So how is it possible that while other brands spend millions chasing the next trend, Uniqlo | 因此,当其他品牌 花费数百万 追求下一个趋势, Uniqlo |
| 17 | sells the same basic t-shirt year after year and keeps winning? | 年复一年地卖同样的T恤 并不断赢? |
| 18 | Is it because people are now tired | 是因为人们现在累了 |
| 19 | of dressing for others and just want to dress for themselves? | 给别人穿衣服 只想自己穿衣服 |
| 20 | Or is it the case that now being | 还是现在 |
| 21 | neutral is the new trend? | 中立是新趋势吗? |
| 22 | So in this video we'll talk about how Uniqlo built one of the most | 因此,在这个视频中,我们将谈论 如何Uniqlo建立最 |
| 23 | valuable fashion brands on the planet by refusing to be fashionable. | 地球上有价值的时尚品牌 拒绝时尚。 |
| 24 | What is the philosophy behind | 背后的哲学是什么 |
| 25 | their products and how can you apply the same thinking to your own work? | 他们的产品,你怎么能把同样的思维 应用到你自己的作品? |
| 26 | And to answer all | 并回答所有问题 |
| 27 | questions we first need to understand a concept called lifefare. | 我们首先需要了解一个叫做生活福利的概念。 |
| 28 | Hiroshima, 1984. | 广岛,1984年。 |
| 29 | Japan is in the | 日本现在 |
| 30 | middle of an economic boom. | 经济繁荣的中间。 |
| 31 | Money is moving, consumer spending is up and the fashion industry | 钱在动,消费者支出在增加,时尚行业也在增加 |
| 32 | is doing what fashion always does in good times. | 是做时尚 总是在美好时光。 |
| 33 | Going bigger, going louder and more expensive. | 变大 变大 变贵 |
| 34 | At this time 35 year old Tadashi Jinae who had just taken over his father's tailoring business | 这时候,35岁的田桥真爱 刚刚接管了父亲的裁缝生意 |
| 35 | wanted to bring a change in clothing. | 想要换衣服 |
| 36 | So he traveled to US and Europe and saw brands like Gap and UCB. | 于是他游历美国和欧洲,看到了Gap和UCB等品牌. |
| 37 | He noticed that they designed, manufactured and sold their own products without any middlemen. | 他注意到,他们设计、制造和销售自己的产品,没有任何中间人。 |
| 38 | That meant lower prices and more control over the quality. | 这意味着价格降低,对质量有更大的控制。 |
| 39 | So he came back to Japan with a simple | 所以他带着一个简单的回日本 |
| 40 | thought that how to do the same thing in Japan. | 在日本也这样想 |
| 41 | And with that thinking in June 1984 he opened a | 1984年6月,他用这种想法打开了一个 |
| 42 | unique clothing warehouse. | 独一无二的服装仓库 |
| 43 | The idea was simple. | 这个想法很简单。 |
| 44 | Good quality casual clothing at prices that | 优质临时服装,价格 |
| 45 | didn't require a second thought. | 不需要再考虑一下 |
| 46 | No tailoring, no formal wear, just the basics. | 没有裁缝,没有正式的穿戴,只是基础。 |
| 47 | Later he shortened | 后来他缩短了时间 |
| 48 | 给Uniqlo的名字。 | |
| 49 | But when he went to register it a staff member at the patent office misread the | 但是当他去注册的时候 专利局的一名工作人员读错了 |
| 50 | C as Q and I noticed it but he decided to keep it that way as he thought it might look better in | C是Q,我注意到了 但他决定保持这样,因为他认为它可能更好看 |
| 51 | But the early years were not easy. | 但早年并不轻松. |
| 52 | Through the late 80s Uniqlo grew mostly in the smaller cities | 80年代后期,Uniqlo主要生长在小城市 |
| 53 | and suburban areas but with a serious image problem. | 和郊区,但有一个严重的图像问题。 |
| 54 | It was seen as a cheap or discount | 它被视为廉价或折扣 |
| 55 | brand. | 商标。 |
| 56 | Something that you bought if you could not afford anything better. | 如果你买不起更好的东西 你买的 |
| 57 | Even with over 300 stores | 连三百多家店都没有 |
| 58 | opened by the late 90s people outside Japan's major cities saw it as the budget option at the | 90年代后期日本大城市以外的人 把它当作预算选择 |
| 59 | of the town. | 镇上。 |
| 60 | And then came 1998, peak of the last decade. | 然后是1998年, 过去十年的高峰。 |
| 61 | Japan's bubble economy had burst | 日本的泡沫经济已经崩溃了 |
| 62 | years earlier. | 几年前的事了 已经很久了 |
| 63 | The 90s had been a decade of loss, failed banks, rising unemployment and a generation | 90年代经历了十年的损失 银行倒闭 失业率上升 一代人 |
| 64 | of people who were rethinking what they actually needed. | 他们正在重新思考他们真正需要的东西。 |
| 65 | People were not interested in spending | 人们对支出不感兴趣 |
| 66 | money on status anymore. | 钱在状态了。 |
| 67 | They wanted value, real value. | 他们想要价值,真正的价值。 |
| 68 | And that year he and I opened Uniqlo's | 那年他和我开了Uniqlo的店 |
| 69 | first Tokyo store in Harayuku which was a genuinely trendy neighborhood and to launch it he ran a | 东京第一店,在原浦, 是一个真正的潮流社区, 为了启动它,他经营一个 |
| 70 | fleece campaign. | 费斯竞选。 |
| 71 | A fleece jacket from Patagonia at that time costed around 100 dollars and Uniqlo | 当时巴塔哥尼亚的一件羊皮夹克 花了100美元和Uniqlo |
| 72 | sold theirs for 1900 yen roughly 15 to 20 dollars and that too in 15 colors and comparable quality. | 以1900日元的价格售出 大约15到20美元 15种颜色和相当的质量 |
| 73 | In the first year they sold 2 million of these fleece jackets, the year after 8 and a half million, | 在第一年,他们卖了200万件这些绒毛夹克, 在850万后的一年, |
| 74 | the year after that 26 million and in three years they sold over 40 million of these fleece jackets | 之后的一年,2600万, 在三年内,他们卖了4000多万件这些夹克 |
| 75 | from just one campaign. | 一次竞选 |
| 76 | And overnight everything changed. | 一夜之间一切都变了 |
| 77 | 也有人说Uniqlo便宜 | |
| 78 | and suburban were now lining up to buy multiple fleece for their entire families. | 郊区正在排队 为他们全家购买多套羊绒 |
| 79 | And in that | 在那个 |
| 80 | moment then I realized that people didn't just want it cheap, they wanted something that actually | 那一刻,我意识到 人们不只是想要它便宜, 他们想要的东西 实际上 |
| 81 | worked, something that made their everyday life a little bit better. | 工作,使他们的日常生活有一点点改善。 |
| 82 | And that one insight became | 一个洞察力变成了 |
| 83 | the philosophy behind everything Uniqlo makes today and they call it lifewear. | 今天Uniqlo做的一切背后的哲学 他们称之为生活服 |
| 84 | Lifewear is not | 救生衣不会 |
| 85 | a product line or a slogan, it's a tool for living. | 产品线或口号,是生活的工具. |
| 86 | And a good tool should not just work better but | 一个好的工具 不仅应该更好用,而且 |
| 87 | it should be available to everyone and should not require too much of thinking. | 它应该向每个人开放,不应该要求太多的思考。 |
| 88 | The goal of | 目标 |
| 89 | is to make clothing that just disappears. | 就是要让衣服消失 |
| 90 | And Uniqlo does that in three steps. | 而Uniqlo则分三步完成. |
| 91 | Number one the | 第一个 |
| 92 | fabric, number two the design and number three the manufacturing. | 织物 设计品第二 制造品第三 |
| 93 | Let's start with the fabric. | 先结布料. |
| 94 | 2003年,Uniqlo与一家名为Toray Industries的日本化工公司接触. | |
| 95 | Now Toray is not | 现在托雷不是 |
| 96 | a fashion company, it's a material size company. | 时装公司,它是一个物质规模的公司。 |
| 97 | They make carbon fiber for Boeing aircrafts | 他们为波音飞机制造碳纤维 |
| 98 | and rockets for Japanese space agencies. | 日本航天局的火箭 |
| 99 | And Yanai wanted to know if they could apply the same | 柳井想知道他们是否同样申请 |
| 100 | level of engineering to clothing fabric. | 从工程到衣物 |
| 101 | And the result of that partnership was Heat Tech, | 合作的结果是热技术 |
| 102 | a fabric that generates heat from the natural moisture of your body. | 由你身体的自然湿度产生热量的织物 |
| 103 | It traps that moisture | 它会夹住水分 |
| 104 | and keep it close to your skin without adding any bulk. | 并保持它接近你的皮肤 不增加任何块。 |
| 105 | One thin layer of this can give you more | 薄薄的一层可以给你更多 |
| 106 | warmth than multiple layers of traditional cotton. | 比多层传统棉花暖和 |
| 107 | Your body constantly releases water vapors even | 你的身体不断释放出水蒸气 |
| 108 | when you're not sweating. | 未发汗时. |
| 109 | You just don't notice it. | 你只是没注意到 |
| 110 | Heat Tech is made with rayon fibers that | 热技术是用线束纤维制造的 |
| 111 | absorbs that vapor and convert the kinetic energy of your movement into heat. | 吸收蒸汽 将你运动的动能转化为热量 |
| 112 | Then the fabric traps | 然后布料被夹住 |
| 113 | that heat inside tiny air pockets between the fibers so it never escapes. | 纤维之间的微小空气口袋里的热量 所以它永远逃不掉 |
| 114 | It was so effective | 这么有效 |
| 115 | that they have sold over one billion units of Heat Tech since 2003. | 自2003年以来,他们已售出超过10亿套热技术。 |
| 116 | And after engineering this | 经过这个工程 |
| 117 | solution for winters, then they decided to sell for summers. | 冬天的解决方案, 然后他们决定出售夏季。 |
| 118 | And they called it | 他们称之为 |
| 119 | Again with Toray, they developed a polyester fiber that is one-twelfth of thickness of human hair. | 他们又和托雷一起发展出一种聚酯纤维,即人类头发厚度的十二分之一. |
| 120 | That's so thin that you can barely see it. | 这太瘦了,你几乎看不到它。 |
| 121 | And because that fiber is that fine, the fabric has | 因为纤维是那么细,织物有 |
| 122 | almost no surface irregularities. | 几乎没有表面违规。 |
| 123 | It's incredibly smooth. | 这是令人难以置信的光滑。 |
| 124 | And it matters because when your body | 这很重要,因为当你的身体 |
| 125 | spits, moisture needs to move away from your skin. | 吐痰,水分需要远离皮肤. |
| 126 | With regular cotton, the fibers absorb | 用普通的棉花,纤维吸收 |
| 127 | that moisture and hold it. | 水分和保持它。 |
| 128 | That's why cotton feels damp, sticky, and uncomfortable. | 这就是为什么棉花感到潮湿,粘稠,不舒服。 |
| 129 | But with | 不过 |
| 130 | aerism, those micro thin fibers pulls the moisture away from your skin and spread it across a much | 那些微薄的纤维 将水分从你的皮肤上拉开 并分散到很多地方 |
| 131 | larger surface area where it can evaporate almost instantly. | 它几乎能立即蒸发的地表面积更大。 |
| 132 | They also engineered the cross-section | 他们还设计了横截面 |
| 133 | shape of this fiber to increase the surface area even further, which means more contact points | 这种纤维的形状可以进一步增加表面面积,这意味着更多的接触点 |
| 134 | for moisture to travel along faster. | 水分可以更快地流动 |
| 135 | And the result is a t-shirt that feels almost like air | 结果是一件T恤 感觉就像空气 |
| 136 | against a skin. | 对抗皮肤。 |
| 137 | It doesn't cling, it doesn't trap heat, it doesn't wrinkle badly or lose shape. | 它不会粘住,不会夹住热,不会皱皱严重或失去形状. |
| 138 | It just works. | 它只是工作起来。 |
| 139 | And after solving for hot and cold, then they solved for rain and wind with | 在解决了热和冷之后, 他们解决了雨和风 |
| 140 | Most waterproof jackets have a problem. | 大多数防水夹克都有问题 |
| 141 | They keep the rain out, but they also trap all their | 他们把雨挡在外头 但也困住他们所有的 |
| 142 | body heat inside. | 体内热。 |
| 143 | So you stay dry, but you get all sweaty and uncomfortable. | 所以,你保持干燥, 但你得到所有的汗和不舒服。 |
| 144 | Blocktech 解决了两个问题 | |
| 145 | these problems at the same time. | 这些问题同时出现。 |
| 146 | The fabric has multiple layers which are bonded together. | 织物有多个层,它们交织在一起。 |
| 147 | The outer layer repels water, and the inner layer lets your body heat and moisture escape | 外层能打退水 内层能让你的体温和水分脱落 |
| 148 | So it's windproof, water-resistant, and still breathable. | 故其防风,防水,仍可呼吸. |
| 149 | They also sealed every seam with | 他们也封住了每条线 |
| 150 | waterproof tape, so that no water can enter even from zips and seams. | 防水胶带,使水即使从拉链和缝合物也无法进入. |
| 151 | And the result is a jacket | 结果是夹克 |
| 152 | that looks like a normal paka, but still keeping it sweat-free and breathable. | 这看起来像一个正常的paka, 但仍然保持它的无汗和呼吸。 |
| 153 | This is what Inay | 这就是伊奈 |
| 154 | means when he says that Uniqlo is a technology company. | 他说Uniqlo是一家科技公司 |
| 155 | The clothes look simple, but underneath | 衣服看起来很简单,但下面 |
| 156 | that simplicity is a level of material engineering that most fashion companies never attempt. | 简洁是大多数时尚公司从未尝试过的材料工程水平. |
| 157 | But lifewear is not just about what the fabric does. | 但救生衣并不只是布料的作用。 |
| 158 | It's about what the whole product feels | 这是关于整个产品的感觉 |
| 159 | like to live in. | 喜欢住在里面。 |
| 160 | And for Uniqlo, that starts with one idea. | 对Uniqlo来说,从一个想法开始。 |
| 161 | Clothing that gets out of your way. | 穿得离你远点 |
| 162 | So let's talk about how they actually design for that. | 所以,让我们来谈谈他们实际上如何设计。 |
| 163 | When you walk into a Uniqlo store, | 当你走进Uniqlo商店时 |
| 164 | the products never try to tell you what to be. | 产品从来没有试图告诉你是什么。 |
| 165 | They are neutral on purpose. | 他们有意中立 |
| 166 | It's made for all. | 是为一切众生. |
| 167 | The same t-shirts fits a 22-year-old designer and a 60-year-old professor. | 同一件T恤适合22岁的设计师和60岁的教授. |
| 168 | The same fleece | 同样的小费 |
| 169 | works on a student and a retiree hiking in the mountains. | 一个学生和一个退休者在山上徒步旅行 |
| 170 | There are no subcultures, no type | 没有亚文化,没有类型 |
| 171 | signals, and no aesthetic codes. | 和没有美学代码。 |
| 172 | And this creates something unusual in fashion. | 这在时尚中创造了不寻常的东西。 |
| 173 | A product with | 一个产品与 |
| 174 | maximum compatibility. | 最大兼容性。 |
| 175 | Because it adds no identity of its own, it works with everything else you own. | 因为它没有增加它自己的身份, 它的工作与你拥有的一切。 |
| 176 | You don't have to rebuild your whole wardrobe around it. | 你不必在周围重建你的衣橱 |
| 177 | It just slots in. | 它只是插槽进去。 |
| 178 | And more than that, | 不仅如此 |
| 179 | when the clothes are quiet, you as a human, as a personality, can do the talking. | 当衣服安静的时候,你作为一个人,作为一个个性,可以做说话. |
| 180 | That's why | 这就是为什么 |
| 181 | the design language is also deliberately quiet. | 设计语言也刻意安静。 |
| 182 | Clean cuts, no excessive seams, and no logos on | 干净的伤口,没有过度的缝合,没有标志 |
| 183 | outsides. | 外观. |
| 184 | The colors are chosen to work across seasons and skin tones. | 颜色被选为跨季节和皮肤色调的工作. |
| 185 | But quiet design doesn't | 但安静的设计不会 |
| 186 | mean lazy design. | 意思是懒惰的设计。 |
| 187 | Inside every Uniqlo product, there is a surprising amount of details. | 在Uniqlo的每个产品中,都有惊人的细节。 |
| 188 | The | 那个 |
| 189 | collar on a t-shirt is structured to keep its shape after washing. | T恤上的项圈是结构化的,在洗完后保持形状. |
| 190 | Something that most basics | 最基本的东西 |
| 191 | don't manage. | 别管了 |
| 192 | The hems are finished in a way that doesn't unravel. | 螺旋以不破裂的方式完成。 |
| 193 | The buttons on the shirts are | 衬衫上的按钮是 |
| 194 | sewn with extra thread underneath so they can hold through machine washing. | 用额外的线缝合在下面 这样它们就可以通过机器洗涤。 |
| 195 | And none of these | 没有这些 |
| 196 | details are visible when you're looking at the product in the store. | 细节在看店里的产品时可见. |
| 197 | But you will notice them | 但你会注意到的 |
| 198 | in the second year or the third year when the products still look good after years of wearing | 在第二年或第三年,当产品穿戴多年后仍然好看的时候 |
| 199 | and washing. | 还有洗衣服 |
| 200 | Most companies design a product for the moment you see it on the shelf or on the | 大部分公司在货架或货架上设计产品 |
| 201 | product page. | 产品页。 |
| 202 | And then there are a few brands like Uniqlo that designs for the third year, | 还有几个品牌像Uniqlo 设计第三年, |
| 203 | not for the first day. | 第一天不会 |
| 204 | And that's only possible because of the third part, the way they manufacture | 这仅仅是因为第三部分 他们制造的方式 |
| 205 | things. | 东西。 |
| 206 | See, most clothing companies don't make anything. | 看,大多数服装公司都不做任何东西。 |
| 207 | They design something, hand it to a | 他们设计的东西,把它交给 |
| 208 | factory, and hope that it comes out right. | 工厂,希望它出来的权利。 |
| 209 | But Uniqlo does something called SPA, Specialty Store | 但Uniqlo做一些叫做SPA,特产店的东西 |
| 210 | Retailer for Private Label Apparel, which is a very complicated way of saying that they control | 私人Label服饰的零售商 说他们控制 |
| 211 | everything. | 一切众生. |
| 212 | Design, fabric development, factory selections, quality checks, distributions, | 设计、布料开发、工厂选择、质量检查、分配、 |
| 213 | all of it in-house. | 这一切都是内部的。 |
| 214 | They work with around 70 factories, mostly in China, Vietnam, | 他们与大约70家工厂合作, 大多在中国,越南, |
| 215 | and Bangladesh. | 和孟加拉国。 |
| 216 | But unlike most brands that treat their factories as interchangeable vendors, | 但不像大多数把工厂当作可互换销售商的品牌, |
| 217 | Uniqlo sends their own staff to live inside those factories. | Uniqlo派自己的员工 住在那些工厂里 |
| 218 | They call them Takomi, which means | 他们称他们为Takomi,这意味着 |
| 219 | master crafts people. | 工匠大师 |
| 220 | These are engineers or specialists with decades of experience in | 这些工程师或专家具有数十年的 |
| 221 | Japanese textile industry. | 日本纺织业. |
| 222 | And they don't just visit, they move in and live on the factory with | 他们不只是来参观, 他们搬进来,住在工厂里 |
| 223 | the workers to monitor every small detail. | 工人将监视每一个小细节。 |
| 224 | Because if you want the product to be right, you have to | 因为如果你想要产品正确, 你必须 |
| 225 | be in the room where it's made. | 在做它的房间。 |
| 226 | But this level of control also means that Uniqlo can only release | 但这种控制水平也意味着Uniqlo只能释放 |
| 227 | fewer products every year. | 每年产品减少。 |
| 228 | But what they do release, they manufacture in enormous quantities, | 但他们所释放的, 是大量制造的, |
| 229 | sometimes tens of millions of units of a single item. | 有时一个单项的数千万单位. |
| 230 | And that scale changes everything. | 这个尺度会改变一切。 |
| 231 | Because | 因为 |
| 232 | now you can negotiate the cost of the raw materials, you can justify investing in better | 现在你可以谈判原材料的成本, 你可以证明投资更好 |
| 233 | fabric process, and you can run the factory at full efficiency with zero waste from changeovers. | 织物工艺,可以完全高效地运行工厂,零浪费来自更换. |
| 234 | This is how Uniqlo sells a better t-shirt at a lower price. | 这是Uniqlo如何以较低的价格出售更好的T恤. |
| 235 | Not by cutting corners, but by | 不是通过割角,而是通过 |
| 236 | removing everything that doesn't add value. | 移除所有不增加价值的东西。 |
| 237 | A fabric engineered to solve a problem. | 用来解决问题的织物 |
| 238 | A design | 设计 |
| 239 | quite enough to disappear. | 足够消失 |
| 240 | A manufacturing system that controls every step from fiber to shelf. | 一种从纤维到货架的每个步骤的制造系统。 |
| 241 | That's life wear as a system. | 这就是生活磨损作为一个系统。 |
| 242 | But a company's success is not just defined by its products, | 但公司的成功不仅仅是由产品决定的 |
| 243 | it's defined by the principles and philosophy behind each of these products. | 由每个产品背后的原则和哲学来定义. |
| 244 | And there are three | 还有三个 |
| 245 | 原则使得Uniqlo特别。 | |
| 246 | Number one is the value over trends. | 第一是价值高于趋势。 |
| 247 | Number two is the control | 二号是控制器 |
| 248 | in the process. | 正在处理中。 |
| 249 | And number three is the continuous evolution. | 第三是持续进化 |
| 250 | So let's start with the first one, | 让我们从第一个开始 |
| 251 | value over trends. | 价值高于趋势。 |
| 252 | Now trends matter. | 现在的趋势很重要。 |
| 253 | I'm not gonna tell you that they don't. | 我不会告诉你,他们没有。 |
| 254 | A trend is what | 一个趋势是什么 |
| 255 | gets someone through the door. | 找人通过门。 |
| 256 | It's what makes someone stop scrolling. | 令彼众生不作卷. |
| 257 | It's what makes the | 就是它让 |
| 258 | product feel relevant right now. | 产品感到相关 现在。 |
| 259 | But what makes them buy and keeps them coming back is never the | 但是什么让他们买 和保持他们回来 从来没有 |
| 260 | trend. | 趋势。 |
| 261 | It's the value underneath that trend. | 这是这个趋势下的价值。 |
| 262 | That's what stays when the trend is gone. | 这就是趋势消失时所留下的. |
| 263 | The fleece that actually kept them warm. | 令它们暖和的绒毛 |
| 264 | The t-shirt collar that held its shape two years later. | 两年后保持形状的T恤领. |
| 265 | The jacket that didn't make them sweaty in the rain. | 那件衣服没有让他们在雨中流汗 |
| 266 | 这就是Uniqlo从 | |
| 267 | very beginning. | 非常开始 |
| 268 | That trends bring customers to your product, but value is what makes them stay. | 这种趋势会把客户带到你的产品, 但价值是他们留下的原因。 |
| 269 | So let's focus on that. | 因此,让我们集中精力。 |
| 270 | That's why they have the trendy collection with subtle prints and patterns | 这就是为什么他们有 潮流的收藏 有微妙的指纹和图案 |
| 271 | along with the universal basic designs that stays forever. | 以及永存的普世基础设计。 |
| 272 | But here's the thing about value. | 但价值是这样的。 |
| 273 | You | 你们 |
| 274 | can't just decide to make something valuable and then hand it over to someone else to figure out | 不能只是决定做点有价值的东西 然后交给别人去想 |
| 275 | how to make it. | 怎样才能成功。 |
| 276 | Value is only possible if you control the process that creates it. | 只有当您控制创建它的过程时, 才可能值 。 |
| 277 | Which brings | 这带来 |
| 278 | us to our second principle of control. | 我们的第二个控制原则。 |
| 279 | Most clothing brands are essentially marketing companies. | 大多数服装品牌基本上是营销公司. |
| 280 | They come up with an idea, hand it to a supplier, receive a product, put their name on it and finally | 他们想出一个主意,把它交给一个供应商, 接收一个产品, 在上面写他们的名字,最后 |
| 281 | they sell it. | 他们卖掉它。 |
| 282 | For them, the factory is just a vendor and the fabric is just a cost line. | 对于他们来说,工厂只是一个销售商,织物只是一个成本线. |
| 283 | uniqlo不会那样操作. | |
| 284 | And it's not just about quality control. | 这不仅仅是质量控制。 |
| 285 | When you don't control the process, you don't fully understand the product. | 不控制过程时,不能完全理解产品. |
| 286 | And there's a saying that | 有句话说 |
| 287 | you can't improve what you can't see and you can't fix what you never touched. | 你无法改善你看不到的东西 也无法修复你从未碰过的东西 |
| 288 | uniqlo已经花费了 | |
| 289 | decades building a system where nothing escapes their attention. | 数十年来,我们建立了一种制度,在这种制度下,任何事物都不能逃避他们的注意。 |
| 290 | The Takumi are not just quality | 拓木不光是质量 |
| 291 | They are the reason that product can even make a promise. | 它们就是产品能够做出承诺的原因。 |
| 292 | Because when you live inside the factory, | 因为当你住在工厂里时 |
| 293 | when you watch the thread tension shift between morning and afternoon, when you track how a seam | 当你在早上和下午之间 看着线的张力变化 当你跟踪缝合方式 |
| 294 | behaves after the third wash, you learn the things that no spec sheet can ever teach you. | 在第三次洗洗之后,你就会学会 任何光谱表都无法教你的东西。 |
| 295 | And that knowledge feeds back into the next product and the one after that. | 知识会反馈到下一个产品 以及之后的产品中 |
| 296 | But control is not about being a control freak. | 但控制不是要当控制狂 |
| 297 | It's about not outsourcing your understanding | 而是不外包你的理解 |
| 298 | of your own product. | 自己产品。 |
| 299 | But there's a problem with control that once you have it, once you've built | 但控制有问题 一旦你拥有它 一旦你建成了 |
| 300 | all the system and locked in all the processes and found what works, the easiest thing in the world | 所有系统 锁定所有过程 发现什么是可行的 世界上最简单的 |
| 301 | is to just keep doing that because it works. | 就是继续这样做,因为它是有效的。 |
| 302 | But Uniqlo does something very different, | 但Uniqlo做了非常不同的事情, |
| 303 | which is the third principle of continuous evolution. | 这是第三个持续演变的原则。 |
| 304 | Heat Tech was launched in 2003 | 热技术于2003年启动 |
| 305 | with one function, keep you warm without the bulk. | 一个功能,保持你温暖 没有批量。 |
| 306 | And that should have been the end of it. | 这应该已经结束了。 |
| 307 | It worked, it sold a billion units, so just leave it alone. | 成功了,卖了十亿个单位 所以别管它了 |
| 308 | Except Uniqlo didn't leave it alone. | 除了Uniqlo没有放过它 |
| 309 | They went back to Toray and asked what if we could make it warmer? | 他们回到Toray,问 如果我们能让它更暖和? |
| 310 | What if we could make it | 如果我们能成功呢? |
| 311 | for people with sensitive skin? | 对于有敏感皮肤的人? |
| 312 | What if there was an extreme cold version? | 如果有极端冷的版本呢? |
| 313 | And today there are | 今天还有 |
| 314 | of the same core idea and is built on everything they learned from the version before. | 建立在他们从前版本学到的一切之上 |
| 315 | 他们和ARIZM和BlockTech也一样 | |
| 316 | The product never stops being | 产品从未停止过 |
| 317 | developed. | 已开发。 |
| 318 | It just gets quieter, more refined and more precisely tuned to the problem it was | 它只是变得安静, 更精细, 更精确地适应问题 它曾经是 |
| 319 | built to solve. | 建造解决。 |
| 320 | And that's not restlessness. | 这不是不安。 |
| 321 | That's the discipline to keep asking, can this work | 这是纪律 继续问, 这工作 |
| 322 | better for the person who is wearing it? | 更适合穿它的人吗? |
| 323 | Now, everything we've talked about so far is for | 现在,我们所谈的一切都是为了 |
| 324 | but none of them are exclusive to clothing. | 但他们中没有一个是专服的。 |
| 325 | Value over trends, control over processes, | 价值高于趋势,控制进程, |
| 326 | continuous evolution, these are not just fashion strategies, they are product strategies. | 这些不仅仅是时尚战略,而是产品战略。 |
| 327 | And they | 他们 |
| 328 | can work wherever you're building something. | 任何你正在建造的东西,都可以工作。 |
| 329 | So let's talk about how you can actually apply them. | 让我们来谈谈你如何实际应用它们。 |
| 330 | The first one, value over trends. | 第一个,价值高于趋势。 |
| 331 | It starts with simple question, what problem does this actually | 它从简单的问题开始, 什么是问题实际上 |
| 332 | solve? | 解决? |
| 333 | Not what just looks good right now or what's the new investor's hype, but what is the real | 并不是现在看起来很好 也不是新投资者的胡说八道 |
| 334 | specific unglamorous problem that your product exists to fix? | 你产品存在用来解决的具体的不光彩问题? |
| 335 | Because attention, without value | 因为关注,没有价值 |
| 336 | underneath it, it's nothing. | 在它下面 没什么 |
| 337 | People will come, they will try it and they will leave. | 人们会来,他们会尝试,他们会离开。 |
| 338 | uniqlo的音乐 | |
| 339 | Flicke没有赢是因为Flicke在流行 | |
| 340 | It won because people were cold and the existing | 它赢了,因为人们很冷 和现有的 |
| 341 | solutions were too costly and too bulky. | 解决办法过于昂贵和过于庞大。 |
| 342 | The trend was just the moment. | 趋势只是瞬间。 |
| 343 | The value was the actual | 实际值 |
| 344 | reason that they stayed and kept coming back. | 他们留下来继续回来 |
| 345 | So before you chase what's working right now, | 所以在你追寻现在的工作之前 |
| 346 | whether it's AI or energy, find the problem that is not going away and build for that. | 无论是人工智能还是能量 找出问题 而不是去掉 并为此而努力 |
| 347 | Now, that's | 现在,这是 |
| 348 | all about the value or the problem. | 所有关于价值或问题。 |
| 349 | But the way you solve it matters just as much as the solution | 但你解决的方法 和解决方法一样重要 |
| 350 | itself, which is where the second principle comes in. | 这是第二个原则的产生地。 |
| 351 | Control. | 控制点 |
| 352 | Now, control is the one thing that | 现在,控制是一件事 |
| 353 | people skip because it's slow, it's expensive and it feels like an overkill when you're starting | 人们跳过,因为它很慢,它很贵 而且当你开始的时候,感觉就像过度杀戮 |
| 354 | out. | 出来。 |
| 355 | But every time you outsource a decision that you don't understand, whether it's materials, | 但每次你外包一个你不明白的决定, 无论它是材料, |
| 356 | the process or the experience, you lose the ability to improve it. | 过程或经验, 你失去了改进它的能力。 |
| 357 | Of course, you can ask | 当然,你可以问 |
| 358 | for changes, you can complain when it's strong, but you cannot learn from it and you cannot fix | 对于变化,你可以抱怨 当它很强, 但你不能学习它,你无法修复 |
| 359 | it yourself. | 你自己来。 |
| 360 | You don't need to control everything from day one, but you do need to know your product | 你不需要从第一天起就控制一切 但你需要知道自己的产品 |
| 361 | deeply enough that you could. | 足够深了 |
| 362 | So talk to your manufacturer or a supplier, understand why a | 跟你的制造商或供应商谈谈 了解为什么 |
| 363 | material behaves the way it does. | 物质表现的方式。 |
| 364 | Be in the room physically or virtually because the insight that | 在房间里的身体或实际上 因为洞察力 |
| 365 | makes your product better is almost never sitting in a report. | 让你的产品更好 几乎从来不在报告。 |
| 366 | It's sitting in the gap between what | 它坐落于什么之间 |
| 367 | you specified and what actually happened. | 你明确了 到底发生了什么 |
| 368 | And control is not about size. | 控制不是大小问题 |
| 369 | It's about understanding | 这是关于理解 |
| 370 | your product deeply enough to improve it. | 你的产品足以改善它。 |
| 371 | And the last principle is about what you do with that | 最后的原则是 你做什么 |
| 372 | understanding. | 谅解 |
| 373 | You don't stop continuous evolution. | 你不停地进化 |
| 374 | This is probably the easiest and the hardest | 这可能是最简单和最难的 |
| 375 | because it's not complicated, but it requires you to keep questioning something that's already | 因为它并不复杂,但它需要你 继续质疑的东西已经 |
| 376 | working. | 工作时 |
| 377 | Most products plateau, not because the market changed, but because the team stopped | 大部分产品高原 不是因为市场变了 而是因为团队停了 |
| 378 | asking questions. | 问问题。 |
| 379 | The product shipped, the reviews were good and somewhere in the relief of that, | 产品被运出,审查是好的 某处缓解, |
| 380 | the curiosity went quiet. | 好奇心变得平静了 |
| 381 | Uniqlo has been refining the same t-shirt for decades, not because it was | Uniqlo几十年来一直在改进同样的T恤 而不是因为它是 |
| 382 | broken, because they believe that the current version is just the best they could do right now. | 因为他们认为现在的版本是他们所能做的最好的版本。 |
| 383 | So build the habit of going back and asking what do we know now that we didn't know when we made | 所以建立回去的习惯 问我们知道什么 现在我们不知道什么时候做 |
| 384 | this? | 这个? |
| 385 | And what would we do differently? | 我们该怎么办? |
| 386 | Small answers to that question, compounded over years, | 这个问题的答案很小, 多年来, |
| 387 | is how you end up with a product that feels like it was made specifically for the person using it. | 你最终会得到一种产品, 它感觉它是专门为使用它的人做的。 |
| 388 | And that's it. | 且道. |
| 389 | Find the problem that isn't going away, understand your product deep enough to | 找出问题,不会消失, 理解你的产品 足够深入到 |
| 390 | improve it, and never make a mistake that good enough is finished. | 改进它,永远不要犯一个错误 足够好的完成。 |
| 391 | None of this is complicated, | 这些都不是复杂的 |
| 392 | but simple is not same as easy. | 但简单并不容易 |
| 393 | Because the temptation always is to chase what's working | 因为诱惑总是追逐有效的 |
| 394 | right now and to outsource the hard part to ship it and move on. | 现在把困难的部分外包出去,然后运走 |
| 395 | uniqlo已经坚持了40年 | |
| 396 | that noise. | 那个噪音。 |
| 397 | They realized that when you stop trying to be fashionable, you start being essential. | 他们意识到,当你停止尝试时尚, 你开始变得至关重要。 |
| 398 | Because fashion is usually a performance, a costume we wear to tell the world who we are. | 因为时尚通常是一种表演,我们穿的服装是为了告诉世界我们是谁. |
| 399 | And Uniqlo realized that the most important part of an outfit is not the fabric, it's the person | 而Uniqlo意识到一件衣服最重要的部分不是布料 而是那个人 |
| 400 | inside it. | 内在 |
| 401 | Because when you stop designing for the mirror and start designing for the life being | 因为当你停止为镜子设计 开始为生命设计 |
| 402 | lived, the product changes. | 活下来了,产品就变了 |
| 403 | It stops being a statement and starts being a solution. | 它不再是一个声明,开始是一个解决方案。 |
| 404 | It doesn't | 没有 |
| 405 | demand your attention, it gives it back to you. | 请大家注意,它会还给你 |
| 406 | So as you go out and build your own thing, | 所以当你出去 建造自己的东西, |
| 407 | remember that utility outlasts hype. | 记住那个功用超乎寻常 |
| 408 | Build something that works so well that it just | 造出一个工作非常有效的东西 |
| 409 | disappears. | 不见了。 |
| 410 | Because when the products become quiet, the person using them can finally be heard. | 因为当产品变得安静的时候,使用它们的人终于可以被听到. |
| 411 | That's all for today. | 今天就到这里吧 |
| 412 | I'll see you in the next one. | 后一见. |
| 413 | Bye. | 再见。 |
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